Torre delle Giavine (Boccioleto)

Torre delle Giavine (Boccioleto)


A fascinating monolith of 90m open from April to November, offers 5 routes, each about 90 m in length.

Via Esposito (6b+ or 6a (A0)) an airy route with very difficult parts requiring strength, this is the longest route which leads along beautifully spectacular vertical fissures; to conquer the central roof a lot of experience of artificial routes is necessary. This is also part of the north-west face Parete Nord and Spigolo Nord Est, both 70m long and grade A1, A2.

On the east face there is Sumo (6c ) a very technical route mostly on a wall; Re Bonfanti (6b+) not very difficult route with entertaining parts using hooks and Via Normale (5+) an ascent possible for most climbers with very evocative parts, especially the so called "leaf”, a flake detached from the wall. Francione Eguala (6 a, A1) offers a slightly oblique climb from right to left and is situated on the south-west face.

Approach: from Ronchi Hamlet of Boccioleto take the path with a wooden signpost, 40 mins walk.